fluoride filter

[KerriAnn]

Oh, I agree completely. I meant that if your filter is getting out the 90% of the fluoride which is in molecules which other things, you should feel good about that and not fret about the other 10%. I did not mean that you shouldn't worry about filtering at all because "what's the point?".

My information is based on this, which is the latest thing I've read on the subject:

http://lewrockwell.com/mercola/mercola180.html

Up until reading that, I had always thought R.O. took out the fluoride. You think Green is wrong? I don't see how either alumina nor charcoal could take out the free fluoride ions if they are just filter media -- either the holes are small enough that the fluoride isn't let through, or they are big enough to allow it to pass. The holes can't be small enough to stop the fluoride without also blocking the water. Perhaps one could make a chemical reaction filter with something that the fluoride really wants to latch onto, so it un-frees all of the free ions and then that new molecule is too big to pass through the next filter.

WOW, that article is scary. I had a mini panick attack about halfway through reading it... It occured to me when I started researching fluoride that it would of course occur in processed foods (like crackers, etc), because I'm sure the companies who make that crap use fluoridated water as well. But I never thought they would be spraying it all over our damn vegetables! wtf!
Not to be depressing, but sometimes I am so dissappointed with the way things are, I want to scream.

[craezie]

I bought a fluoride filter from a company called Crystal Quest out of Georgia. My kids love to get the ice and water out of the refrigerator, so I wanted to get something that would work with the existing PUR charcoal based filtration system. Basically you just install it into the wall behind your fridge, and cut it into the line before the water hits your refrigerator. Seems to work great, and you just have to pull the fridge out and change the cartridge every 6 months (or 1 year if you don't have hard water).

[dannno]

My city water isn't fluoridated but it is really crappy.

You can get RO filters WAY cheaper than $300 (well under $100), but it might be difficult to hook it up seamlessly to your sink without doing major modifications.

Here's the problem with RO: It gets EVERYTHING out of the water!! You WANT minerals and such in your water just like it comes from mountain streams and wells.

What i recommend is an inexpensive PPM (parts per million) water meter. Typical tap water will be anywhere from 300-500 ppm. About 250-300 is natural minerals, then the rest is chlorine, fluoride, probably some metallics or whatever else the water picks up on the way to your tap.

Then you will RO the water and you should have between water that is 5-35 ppm. The problem with this water is that it will WANT to pickup minerals and such, and thus as you drink it, it will LEECH important minerals and nutrients from your body!!

So what I do is I take a 5 gallon jug of the RO water with everything stripped out and I add the minerals I want back in using Concentrace:

http://www.traceminerals.com/product...ionic-minerals

I use the PPM meter to get it back up to around 300ppm.

Then you can take your 5 gallon jug and put it on your typical 5 gallon jug water dispenser. Use that water for drinking and cooking.

[azxd]

you can get a nice distiller for 80 buck, they get 100% of the flouride out

If done correctly, this is true, but they require an energy source.

[azxd]

My city water isn't fluoridated but it is really crappy.

You can get RO filters WAY cheaper than $300 (well under $100), but it might be difficult to hook it up seamlessly to your sink without doing major modifications.

Here's the problem with RO: It gets EVERYTHING out of the water!! You WANT minerals and such in your water just like it comes from mountain streams and wells.

What i recommend is an inexpensive PPM (parts per million) water meter. Typical tap water will be anywhere from 300-500 ppm. About 250-300 is natural minerals, then the rest is chlorine, fluoride, probably some metallics or whatever else the water picks up on the way to your tap.

Then you will RO the water and you should have between water that is 5-35 ppm. The problem with this water is that it will WANT to pickup minerals and such, and thus as you drink it, it will LEECH important minerals and nutrients from your body!!

So what I do is I take a 5 gallon jug of the RO water with everything stripped out and I add the minerals I want back in using Concentrace:

http://www.traceminerals.com/product...ionic-minerals

I use the PPM meter to get it back up to around 300ppm.

Then you can take your 5 gallon jug and put it on your typical 5 gallon jug water dispenser. Use that water for drinking and cooking.

I once had an RO system, but ditched it because it wasted a lot of water ... Before I ditched it, I had it set-up so I could water plants and such in the yard with the waste it produced.
Most installations just dump it down the drain ... Very inefficient, but YES they will produce lab grade water, which as you pointed out, is not a good thing.

[KerriAnn]

Lot's of good info here, thank you everyone!
Update: I ended up putting some of the water that was filtered from my tap master jr into a black plastic cup, then let it evaporate to see what was left. It was nearly spotless! I'm thinking this is a good thing!
I do wonder if minerals would have left a residue in the cup after evaporation.... I can't find any info online yet.

[wrestlingwes_8]

My city water isn't fluoridated but it is really crappy.

You can get RO filters WAY cheaper than $300 (well under $100), but it might be difficult to hook it up seamlessly to your sink without doing major modifications.

Here's the problem with RO: It gets EVERYTHING out of the water!! You WANT minerals and such in your water just like it comes from mountain streams and wells.

What i recommend is an inexpensive PPM (parts per million) water meter. Typical tap water will be anywhere from 300-500 ppm. About 250-300 is natural minerals, then the rest is chlorine, fluoride, probably some metallics or whatever else the water picks up on the way to your tap.

Then you will RO the water and you should have between water that is 5-35 ppm. The problem with this water is that it will WANT to pickup minerals and such, and thus as you drink it, it will LEECH important minerals and nutrients from your body!!

So what I do is I take a 5 gallon jug of the RO water with everything stripped out and I add the minerals I want back in using Concentrace:

http://www.traceminerals.com/product...ionic-minerals

I use the PPM meter to get it back up to around 300ppm.

Then you can take your 5 gallon jug and put it on your typical 5 gallon jug water dispenser. Use that water for drinking and cooking.

What about showering, washing your face, hands and clothes or, most importantly, the water you use for a garden? Know of any whole-house systems that are decent?

[AFPVet]

Depends where you live in America because it's a local issue. I believe about 30% of municipalities do not fluoridate their water systems.

No, not all countries force fluoride on their people.

Yup... one city 20 miles away doesn't fluoridate, but the one 10 miles away does!